Wiring the VGA connector

My new quick release system on the Thrustmaster TX base needed new wiring so it could handle more wires to my connector of choice, the 15 pin VGA connector.

I wanted to have the 6 pins from Thrustmaster so I could still use Thrustmaster's own wheels, in addition I wanted two USB lines, the last pin is for the grounded shield.

Bought this 160mm 15 Core Coiled Cable of ebay.

I 3D printed this cableholder I drew, and secured it with a ziptie so it won't twist my soldered cables.

Here is my wiring diagram, I chose to use VGA female connector on steering wheel because this is the part that will be laying around, so there is no chance of bend pins.

( ) is the color of original cable

[ ] is the color of my ebay cable

VGA pin 1: USB 1 (Red) [Red]

VGA pin 2: USB 1 (White) [White]

VGA pin 3: USB 1 (Green) [Green]

VGA pin 4: USB 1 (Black) [Black]

VGA pin 5: TX (Green) [Yellow]

VGA pin 6: TX (Blue) [Dark Blue]

VGA pin 7: TX (White) [Offwhite]

VGA pin 8: TX (Orange) [Light Brown]

VGA pin 9: TX (Red)  [Purple]

VGA pin 10: TX (Brown) [Dark Brown]

VGA pin 11: USB 2 (Red) [Orange]

VGA pin 12: USB 2 (White) [Light Grey]

VGA pin 13: USB 2 (Green) [Light Green]

VGA pin 14: USB 2 (Black) [Grey]

VGA pin 15: Ground shield [Light Blue]

The stl for my cable holder can be found on thingiverse:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748230

Thrustmaster TX/T300 Quick Release adapter

I have started to convert my Thrustmaster TX base's steering wheel release system to a slim quick release system with a 15 pin VGA connector.

That way I can use real steering wheels, home made ones and thrustmasters own with some modification.

I bought several slim quick release adapters from eBay, so I get more of the wheel side of the adapters so I can have more steering wheels. I also bought some USB type B connectors and VGA connectors and a 15 core spiral/flex cable. I used the VGA connectors because they got 15 pins so I can get the 6 OEM Thrustmaster pins if I want to use an OEM Thrustmaster wheel, and two USB  as well.

This way I can have an OEM Thrustmaster wheel with an arduino card for rev.light and tach/speed/gear indicator display for example, or a homemade wheel with two arduinos, or one arduino with a extra 5 volt line.

I also cut off the USB cord and made a USB type B connector on the housing so it do not have any cables hanging of it.

To connect the slim quick release adapter I drew some parts that need to be 3D printed.

First I removed the OEM wheel release adapter completely from the metal axle, in this process the four bolts holding it from the front broke in the axle, so I drew in some holes on the side of my adapter so it can be hold in place securely. I then needed to draw the outer ring in two parts, since the hole in the ring is smaller than the size of the new quick release system.

Here printed out in ABS: 

 Here is my adapter printed out in PC to be sure it can handle all the hard racing a sim can provide.

 Here is the eBay quick release adapter mounted with my 3D printed VGA connector holder that I have drawn.

I have put all my stl files for my 3D drawings on thingiverse:

Slim Quick Release connector adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748230

Thrustmaster TX/T300 Quick Release adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748230 

Output for E-brake - Xbox

When you use your Thrustmaster TX on Xbox and want to add a E-brake, just add a output for the yellow button on the front of the base, which doubles as an A button when connected to Xbox that you can assign as E-brake in your preferred car game.

You'll need need a female connector for the base, I used a 3.5 jack connector, and some cables.

Solder the cables as shown on the picture:

Made a test E-brake button:

And now you just need to make a E-brake with a button switch.

The "SIMBOX" computer

I wanted a stackable sim racing computer for my sim that could flow air from the front of the cabinet and out the back, so I could have it in a HI-FI rack beside my sim rig. I could not find a case that suited my needs, so I made one myself out of a midi size sharkoon cabinet.

So first I drew some sketches:

To the making! I used a plexiplate and used 2k epoxy glue for use in car plastics.

I used a airsaw to cut out airintake.

Sprayed with paintfiller.

Testing the front with a fan grill I made from a perforated steel plate I bought from ebay.

I got it painted flat black to match the amplifiers it will stack up with.

I got a sticker made for my SIMBOX

Up and running!